Torera Americana

I spent a weekend in the pueblo of Cenicientos. It's located in the south east corner of the province of Madrid, positioned close to Avila to the north and Toledo to the south. I was invited by my friend Nereida, whose family lives there. The first day we went to a Plaza del Toros, but a special one. Nereida's friend Antonio, who works at the facility, explained that here is where they train the toreros and they have competitions with the young bulls. Nereida was disappointed that there wasn't a competition this weekend, but Antonio offered something even better: he gave me some instruction and in depth descriptions of how bullfighting works.

The pictures work almost like a moving picture. David, Nereida's boyfriend, was shooting pictures like crazy. Enjoy the photos and I'll try and explain as much as possible.

Cristina, Nerieda, and me

A meat cow.

Antonio and I feeding the cows. Nereida and her mother thought I was really brave.

Antonio as Señor Junio. (That's him in the picture.) His father owns this place and they have quite an active business. Antonio was really proud of this picture. I'm guessing he does pretty well in the competitions.

Me pretending. Little did I know what Antonio had in mind. Good thing I'm shameless.

I can't believe they made me keep the hat on... Here Antonio is explaining that I need to coax and tease the bull by moving the capote (cape) in a particular fashion. I need to keep the cape away from my body and my feet in position. This particular cape is called the capote de brega and it is traditionally a bright pink and yellow, though some toreros think that the yellow is bad luck and choose green for the second color.

Then I can move the cape as the bull comes nearer. The feet and the arms work together to keep the bull close to the cape but away from my body.

And if possible, I need to try and look as chulo as Antonio.

Yeah. Right.

Here comes my toro! Not nearly as suave as Antonio, but not too shabby!

Gorka (Nereida's brother) and Antonio showing me how it's done.

Gorka loves being the bull. That kid is always smiling. Antonio won major points for being able to whip that heavy cape around like it was silk.

Trying again.

Antonio is saluting the crowd. After, he throws the montera (hat) on the ground behind him. If the hat lands with its opening to the ground, it's good luck. If it lands upside-down, heaven help you.

Antonio is now teaching me the second part of the bull fight. This cape is called the muleta and it is designed with a dowel and sword (estaquillador) to flare the cape.

Here you can see the sword (espada).

My form is severely lacking.

It's heavier than it looks, and a little awkward.

¡Antonio el toro!

Correcting my form.

With the "real" toro.

What is my toosh doing?

Whoops! My sword lost its spot.
Showing me how to stick my hips out and bring back my shoulders.

"Mas chulo, Jamie! Mas chulo!" dice Gorka. "Jajaja! No soy una chula, Gorka. No puedo!"

Going for the killing stroke.

Success!

Goofing off.

Antonio showing off. ¡Gracias a David por las fotos!

The cow whisperer calling his herd.

Antonio and I feeding a macho bread with our hands. The cow tongue was huge, slimy, and strong.

Checking out the meat cows. What a fun adventure! The next post will tell all the other adventures in Cenicientos. It was a crazy-full weekend of castles, cows, and countryside.