Nereida showing me the cocido madrileño.
Nereida, who was one of my first students at the American Language Academy, invited me to her pueblo one weekend to see what life is like in el campo. Her mother, Belén, prepared mountains of food (with the help of her brother, Gorka), her father picked fresh asparagus from the mountains and took us to see la Piedra Escrita, David and Nereida shuttled me around to all the sights in the pueblos nearby, Cristina (Gorka's girlfriend) smiled and provided great conversation, and I drew pictures to show my thanks.
The family astounded me with their generosity and enthusiasm. They were very excited to share every bit of their lives and yet they kept the weekend relaxed and with plenty of downtime watching dubbed reality TV from the States. Pimp My Ride is definitely harder to follow dubbed and while conversing with folks and trying not to think in English.
From the first moment I stepped in the home, the family was teaching me about the foods they consider their favorites. Not five minutes after introductions, Nere's father came in bearing fresh spring asparagus. Nere's mother gave me a tour of all the different foods she'd prepared in the kitchen, explaining how to make them and which region the recipes originated from. Nere provided cultural background on why the recipes were developed. I was flooded with interesting stories and family history and the funny banter between Gorka and the rest of the family.
After a full weekend of fun and language immersion, I was totally exhausted, but so very happy. Nereida and David drove me home and I kept them talking--I loved getting to know them and hearing their stories. I felt like Liza Dolittle coming home from the Embassy Ball--like I'd fooled people into thinking I was a princess who could actually speak Spanish. I felt like I'd been hugged by all of Spain.
Belén showing me migas de pan
Left to right, requesón, pan con ensalada rusa, y torrijas. The terracotta jug is a special cooling jug meant for those hot days when you want really cold water.
The sopa cooking in the fire.
Belén is very proud of this picture. She loves "Los indios" and put up the drawing I gave her with this poster.
Going round the table left to right: Nereida, Belén (Nere's mom), Davíd (Nere's boyfriend), Gorka (Nere's brother), Cristina (Gorka's girlfriend). On the table is the cocido and salad. On one plate there is the garbanzos and the cabbage, the other plate has chorizo, ham, ....
We stopped by to say hello to the ostriches. Very pretty in the evening light.
Castillo de Escalona (Toledo)
Cigüenas (storks)
The main church in Cenicientos. Instead of costly sculptures, the nave is decorated mostly by paintings. A modest but very attractive church. We got kicked out because the nuns had to go to another village and were in a time crunch. They turned off the lights before we made it outside--spooky!
The beginning of our hike: la Ruta de la Peña de Cenicientos
David is telling me interesting things. Perhaps that that little peak there is where people often go rock climbing.
This is marking the peak. If you take this official seal off the rock or destroy it, they will fine you or imprison you.
At the top!
Pointing towards some buitres (vultures).
Pretty!
The other direction, with Nere.
Cute couple!
If you look closely at the horizon, you can see the four towers of Madrid. You can also see a lot of pollution. Unfortunately, Madrid doesn't get enough airflow to disperse the air pollution. Reminds me a lot of Spokane.
Lichen
Mejorano (marjoram)
Nere knows a lot about el campo (the country).
Tomillo (thyme)
Nereida struggling with the camelback. She was unimpressed. David and I giggled inappropriately.
Looks like the maidenhair ferns back home (helechos in Spanish). But this spring and winter have been so dry that these are left over from last year. Normally all of this would be much greener at this time of year.
People used to use the sap from these trees to make glue and sell it in the towns and cities. They would collect the sap by stripping off the layers of bark and attaching metal fittings to the tree that helped hold the collection bucket. This process is not unlike tapping trees for maple syrup, but a little more invasive. Check out this tree: there is a large section bare and a metal fitting in a loose U shape that helped direct the sap to the bucket. David suggested that these metal fittings must be at least 10 or 15 years old, as chemical glues became popular more recently.
The foundations of the Seminary, which was abandoned before they finished building it.
Crocus?
Nere presents the map of the hike.
We saw the buitres (vultures)!
David took this pretty picture.
Cenicientos from above.
Gingibre on a enebro tree (juniper berries). These are the lovely fruit that give us gin. These plants are becoming endangered in Spain, but Nere assured me that in this particular area they are quite common.
I took a few home with me. Looking for recipes--apparently they're good to cook with meat.
Los Toros de Guisando carved by ancient peoples.
Giant wine cask at the Castillo la Adrada (Avíla). Nere said it still smelled like wine.
Spanish Gothic.
At the gate to the castle.
David is picking olives. They're caustic before they're pickled.
Almond tree, olive tree, and castle.
Almond blossoms.
The entire castle surrounded by blooming almond trees. This castle was just around the corner from where Nere went to high school.
Irony.
Nereida's dad took us on a hike to see the special rock of Cenicientos. The first five minutes were on a trail with sheep tracks, but it quickly became a romp in vineyards, gardens, and private property.
Over an irrigation ditch.
In the middle of nowhere, literally, there was a sign saying "For Sale" with a phone number. I'm not sure how often they get a call...
La Piedra Escrita de Cenicientos--it's origins are a total mystery.
This is a vegetable related to garlic and onion but with a very mild flavor. We dug some up in a vineyard (they grow wild) to add to our lunch. We ate them raw cut up with tomatoes and oregano with a little oil and vinegar. Yummy! The following week Nere brought me some more from the pueblo and I had them three days in a row.
The track of a jabolí (wild boar). This old vineyard with it's rotting vines had evidence of jabolís rutting in the earth for insects and things to eat. It looked kind of similar to when moles destroy your garden, only messier.
Ripe almonds. You have to try one almond at each tree. Each tree has one of two flavors, dulce (sweet) or amargo (sour). The sour almond flavor is pretty potent, so it's important to check before collecting. We collected a lot of almonds, but I don't have a nut cracker or a hammer. Torture! I'll go steal one from Susan's house....
Fresh almonds are much more flavorful than the ones you get from the store.
Nere's dad is camera shy, but he's pulling the branch down so that David and I have an easier time picking almonds.
Castillo la Adrada (Avíla)
Look! I'm in a turret! The castle has been heavily restored, this is one of the original turrets. 
Gorka is being adventurous and a bit naughty. I'm looking concerned and being a pansy. 
Gorka is not shy. It's nice to have someone goofy around, especially when David has the camera. It was like the paparazzi!
Conquistadors!
Nice one, David.
This was my idea. We were so good at it too....
The last stop was to see Nere's uncle's sheep. They were not pleased to see us. 
But this little buddy was thrilled. He jumped up and hurled himself against the fence and made impressive leaps. His excited barks were friendly, not threatening at all, so I put a few fingers through the fence and he snuggled up to the fence with his neck against my fingers. After a little bit of that, he moved so that I could scratch his chin. He was so happy! But a moment later he'd want more and get frustrated and leap up again, "Let me at her! Let me at her!! I want more snuggles!" Such a pretty dog.
