Sunday, January 11, 2009

Granada-New Year's Eve Backwards




Isabel Catolica monument with transvestites in the background. 


The cutest girls in the mosh-pit of the Spanish.

Em swigs like the pro she is. 

Molly swigs with grape bag in tow. 

Mmm... champagne.... We all are not the biggest fans of champagne but no one would take our bottle off our hands. Apparently we're really sketchy looking. Three fourths of the bottle went to waste. We had a moment of solemn appreciation and mourning before dropping it into a trash can. 

As the clock strikes twelve, the Spanish eat one grape for every chime. Emily and I attempted... but sadly failed. 



Our best Schwarma faces ever. There were stray dogs circling us like sharks the entire time. Schwarma is like a Doner Kebap (think Pita Pit without so many add-ons) with a different sauce. Cheap yummy food! The meat for Doners and Schwarmas is highly disgusting--a log of processed chicken or lamb that rotates slowly upright next to a space heater looking thing. The vender shaves off the meat with a barber's buzzer or a knife and folds it into your pita with some pickled veggies and creamy sauce. Yum! 

Plaza Nuevo on New Year's Eve. 


Most of the pedestrian streets and sidewalks in Granada look a lot like this. Sigh.... 


The cutest, oldest, yummiest, restaurant in the whole world. It also has the best waiter in the whole world. I am in love! Molly was sick with some horrible stomach thing and Emily got full really fast so I ate for three! I have never been so happy or so full in my life. If food tasted like this every day I'd be 300 pounds and HAPPY. 


Saturday, January 10, 2009

Toledo: A fairly thorough tour.

Toledo was once a walled city atop a hill. Now it spreads out beyond the wall for several miles--the interior city still very similar to the 1400s. The walls are impressive, the hill a work-out, and the views incredible. Toledo was at one time the capitol of Spain... much like just about every other major city in Spain. 



The Cathedral made entirely out of marzipan. It made me think of Aunt Carol and her many gingerbread masterpieces. Remember 321? Amazing. This sculpture was about three feet tall. 


The Cathedral. It's crammed in among other buildings with a tiny little plaza at the front doors. I chose to only photograph details of it instead of trying to get the whole frontal facade. Think what you will of that. 


The Cathedral. 


One of many sword shops in Toledo. One of the Cathedral towers is reflected in the glass. 


Toledo boasts a small but impressive Safardic museum in an old converted Synogogue. It was beautiful, many of the original hebrew plaster embellishments and tapestries still decorate the walls. The women's gallery was very beautiful and they had gathered jewish artifacts from all around Spain to commemorate the lost culture of Safardic Jews and explain their way of life before the Reconquista. This is a photograph of how the roof was built (it had to be restored and was very beautifully done). 



Toledo is known for a style of metal working that includes black ceramics inlaid with gold filagree. Very beautiful and very expensive, but Emily stopped at this shop and the charming owner entertained us for a while. He makes a good deal of the merchandise and even danced a few steps with Molly. Emily picked up a medium sized plate and he shook his head and suggested she try something a little smaller, it was over 100 euros! It was wonderful to meet such a friendly local craftsman and I'll be back soon. 



Swords are big in Toledo. You can buy them in all different sizes, shapes, and historical contexts. This is a miniature Round Table. You must remember that knights were hugely influential in these parts as the crusaded through on holy quests and such. To me, it seems ridiculous to equate the knights of my childhood with Spain, but Emily assures me that Spain was just as knighty as all the other bits of Europe. 



Yes, that's right. This is creamy goop sandwiched between wafers of some sort. Unfortunately the sense of scale is lost in the photo... but the pile is about six inches tall. It takes my breath away.

I love the windows of bakeries in Spain. Especially when they involve queso, belen, y marzipan.


 
The classic Toledo cookie being attacked by Molly. I believe it's called something like "toldeoean" or something logical like that. It has these rocky pieces of sugar on the outside that are slightly sketchy, according to my teeth. 


Toledo is such an old city that the streets are often so narrow you can reach your arms across and touch both sides. These buildings are very close together. Emily took the pic of me demonstrating how narrow the streets were. Toledo is also very hilly and often there are steps in the streets. This was a difficult concept for Emily and so Molly and I used our very helpful non-verbal cues to keep her safe. We are so thoughtful. 


The municipal library is located in the old castle of Toledo. Sneaking up to its cafe was one of my best ideas ever. The view was fantastic! Unfortunately there was no access that we could see to anything cool and castle-y from the library so we moved on after snapping some pretty sweet landscapes.  Toledo was once the capital of Castille-Leon, the royal seat of Spain. 


Taken from the library window. The cathedral is in the foreground and you can see the old mosque in the background.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

The Christmas Spirit

Molls and I went to an awesome party for my friend's brother. This is us having way too much fun: proof that I get out once in a while.  

This is the place where you get things. Well, one of the many places you get things. You know, like the indispensible Christmas Mohawk or Three Kings that climb your terrace. 



These children can be yours for just six euros each. They come complete with uniforms. 


In the Rastro (which Molly and I now pronounce with bad imitation of the Jetsons' dog) there is a little deli that serves amazing open-faced sandwiches. I recommend the tuna, unless you're a fan of octopus or pickled squid tenacles. They also have the classic bocadillo flavors like tortilla, jamon, codfish, and lomo. The Rastro is probably the world's largest flea market. The place you go for jewelry, scarves, antiques, pickpocketing, and yummy sandwiches. 

Segovia







Mmmmmm... Aquaduct....



The Alacazar is a very cool castle that was refurbished and turned into a museum of munitions and castle artifacts. The roof burned a while back but was replicated with beautiful artistry. 



I swear. People were smaller back then. 


Molly sizing up the competition.

Me with my best Greta pose. 


Segovia is a city about an hour bus ride away from Madrid. Of its many attractions, the most famous are the Roman Aquaduct and the old castle that inspired Disney's Sleeping Beauty's castle in DisneyLand (according to the little old man that stopped us outside the castle and proceeded to babble on to us simply because we were Americans that understood his Spanish). The Aquaduct is pretty amazing, constructed entirely without mortar. It stretches across the city with such perfection that it's hard to believe it's been around since antiquity. 

Monday, January 5, 2009

Luz de Navidad

A street near Banco de Espana--I can't remember which. 


Atocha. The Atocha train station is where the bombing took place in 2004. 


C/Preciados.


El Corte Ingles (the Macy's of Spain).


Molly and I in Plaza Mayor. 


Plaza Mayor. Every spanish city has a Plaza Mayor. Of all the cities I've visited so far, Madrid's is the best. This building is decorated with frescoes that were recently retouched and restored. 


Plaza Mayor. About nine of these hung from the sky in Plaza Mayor. They are about 20 across! Pretty cool. 


Puerta del Sol. The very center of Madrid and veritable center of Spain. 


Apreca shopping district. Apreca is made up of three major pedestrian shopping streets: Preciados, Arenal, and 


Apreca shopping district. 


Apreca shopping district. 


Gran Via, probably the busiest street in Madrid. 


Plaza Espana. It could be pretty awesome if they didn't always have little shopping stalls around the monuments. 


Plaza Santa Domingo near Melissa and Joseph's piso. 


Outside Plaza Mayor. The venders in Plaza Mayor all sell wigs and hats--these people decided to purchase rainbow mohawk wigs. This is a mystery to me: why must the Spanish dress in crazy hats and wigs during the holidays? There a plenty of otherwise serious looking people running around in crazy reindeer hats or long curly manes of blue hair. 


This is a real man playing inside a giant phone on the shroud that covers the construction of the Mercado de San Miguel. 

When I came home from England after Thanksgiving the city had beautiful light designs for the busiest streets and Plazas. Traveling around Spain in the month of December I found many other lights strung over busy streets, but none came close to the ingenuity and design of Madrid's. Madrid also boasts a collection of large "Christmas Trees" made entirely out of lights and steel. Truly, the city is far more exciting at night than during the day. My favorite, which I'm bummed I didn't get a picture of, was the Plaza Tirso de Molina lights that were pairs of eyes that blinked. So cool.